MILAN

WHY
Shopping, La Scala, but lots more. Breathtakingly beautiful, the Duomo (piazza del Duomo, 02 8646 3456) is the world’s third largest church. The Pinacoteca Brera (via Brera 28, 02 722 631, closed Mon) is a (vast) treasurehouse of 13th-20th century Italian art. Visit the castle (piazza Castello, 02 884 63700, closed Mon), where more art is on view in the recently-reopened Pinacoteca.

To see Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper (il Cenacolo), book four weeks in advance (00 39 02 89421146, Santa Maria della Grazie, Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2, closed Mon). Leonardo also helped mastermind the canals (navigli) that served as Milan’s commercial lifeline. The Navigli district now features trendy boutiques, bars and restaurants.

The Triennale (viale Alemagna 9, 02 724341, closed Mon) is a mecca for all design fans; the newly-inaugurated Triennale Bovisa (Via Lambruschini 31, 02 724341, closed Mon) offers a wealth of surprises. 

Most performances at La Scala sell out right away. Try anyway (box office, Duomo metro station, 02 72003744, 9am and 6pm, closed Sunday), or www.teatroallascala.org.

Shopping opportunities abound, however. Head through Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, along Via Manzoni, Via Montenapoleone, Via Sant’Andrea, Via della Spiga, and Corso Venezia. Corso di Porta Ticinese is home to up-and-coming designers. Budget buying? Check out D-Magazine (via Montenapoleone 26).

Milan is also a great jumping-off point for visiting the lakes: Como (20 minutes away by train), Stresa on Lake Maggiore (two hours).

WHO 

The painter Caravaggio was born here. Leonardo Da Vinci, Mozart, Stendhal, Ernest Hemingway, and Albert Einstein lived here.

WEIRD

A chapel decorated using human bones awaits in the church of San Bernardino alle Ossa (Piazza Santo Stefano, closed Sat and Sun pm). 

Pillow: With hotels geared towards the corporate traveller, there are few budget-priced options. Book ahead! Places shut down in August and, during the major trade fairs, hotel accommodation is sold out. If money is no object, and while waiting for April when the 7-star Galleria TownHouse opens in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, opt for the Bulgari (via Fratelli Gabba 7, 02 805 8051, www.bulgarihotels.com, from €550). 
For old-world charm, there’s Hemingway’s favourite Hotel et de Milan (Via Manzoni 29, 02 723141, www.grandhoteletdemilan.it, from 500. The Gran Duca di York (via Moneta 1A, 02 874863, from €110) is centrally-located. Rooms can be noisy at the shabbily chic Antica Locanda Solferino (via Castelfidardo 2, 02 657 0129, €190-€220).

Glass: Bar Brera (via Brera 23), the Dom Café (Corso Como 5) or Le Biciclette (via Conca del Naviglio 10) are fun. Bars are plentiful in the via De Amicis/Colonne di San Lorenzo area.

Play: The Corso Como area is the hub of Milan nightlife. Check out, among others, Hollywood, Casablanca Café, and Toqueville 13. 

Travel talk: 00 39 02/
• Tourist information: 
via Marconi 1///CHECK THIS// (02 7252 4301, www.milanoinfotourist.com).